This is just a quick post to let you all know the petrol tank tap has been found!!!!! It had fallen into a box at work and was only found through dumb luck
Not got the link plates back from the plater so still waiting to put the fork back together, I've just asked a company on ebay about making friction discs that are the right size as I can't find anything. Most of the ones I've seen listed are imperial sizes and generally have a bigger OD and ID. For reference the Automoto discs are 50mm OD, 10mm ID and 3mm thick.
Saturday 29 November 2014
Friday 7 November 2014
Front Shock/Links
I managed to take the links to a plater and we decided to go with a brushed/satin nickel finish. I was really impressed by the knowledge and passion the guy has for making ugly parts shiny again. I was also pleased with the price quoted, once I've collected them (should be a couple of weeks - another pleasant surprise!) and I know the final price I'll stick it up for reference.
Here are the upper links with their bolts. It's the same set up as the rear pivot on the lower link; adjust with the bolt and lock with the locknut. The upper links are much simpler, basically a big piece of Mechano with on end tapped.
Today I managed to get the shock cleaned up and discovered that the lower section is (was) chromed. There was so much grease and road grime on it that it was completely black and the thought hadn't even crossed my mind that it would be chromed. The main spring was completely covered in grease so I got that cleaned up along with the inside of the top and lower sections. The spring has a bit of wear on the outside where it has rubbed the inside of the tubes. I can't really see it causing a problem to be honest but I'll have to wait and see. If it causes much noise I will use some heat shrink around it. This pic shows all of the parts, it really is a simple shock.
Whilst it was apart I thought I'd work out how much travel it gets (in theory). I reassembled the shock without the main spring but with the negative spring in it. At full length it was 220mm and at full compression it was 155mm. That gives 65mm of travel. BUT the main spring will push the negative spring back slightly, making the shock a little bit longer at full travel and the spring will most likely start to bind before it hits full travel so that number is pretty much just a guess. :)
(Sorry for the crappy pic on these two, trying to take pics left handed whilst holding the steel rule and my phone case trying to close on the lens isn't easy)
Once I was happy with how clean things were, they got greased back up and it all went back in the press (no pic as it's just the same as the taking it apart one) and the bolt put back in. Here's how it looks now
NB I keep calling it a 'shock' as that's what I'm used to on bicycles but technically this part is just the spring and has no damping in it.
Hopefully I'll be doing some work on the bike this week but we'll have to wait and see
M
Monday 3 November 2014
Forks
This post has been delayed more than I hoped and it still won't be as far on as planned. As mentioned in my previous post I've taken the forks apart to look at the shock, pivots and to get a closer look at the links to see if they need to be re-plated. Here's a pic of the linkage I took before I pulled it to pieces so I had a reference for reassembly, it's pretty obvious that the links are definitely going to need re-plating.
I didn't take any pics whilst I was taking it apart, it was all pretty simple - lock nuts on one end and the axle un-threads from the link on that side through a clearance hole in the other link. This is the lower pivot reassembled but without the fork legs in place. I'm going to need to sort new friction discs as they are really hard and brittle, I'm not sure if they're leather or something else but I'm doing some research to find out. The lower pivot is adjusted underneath the black knob then the black knob adjust the amount of friction to damp the suspension action. The star shaped washer applies spring tension and the little clip holds the black knob in place. The upper pivot is much simpler and is just adjusted using the hex end of the axle then locked off with the locknut on the other end.
The other reason to take the forks to pieces was to have a look at the shock. At first I couldn't see how it was hold together but looking down the end of the small tube on the front (visible in the pics above) I saw spanner flats. Annoyingly there were only two so I couldn't use a socket down the tube to unscrew it. The only way to access it was to squash the whole thing in a press then unscrew that bolt, which also held a negative spring, then the whole shock came apart.In this pic you can see the top of the bolt above the smaller tube, typically for this stupid French bike it's needs an 11mm spanner and the bolt can't be removed because of the grease nipple above. Once I got it out of the press I did have a quick look inside but didn't take any pics.
Whilst it is all apart I will be putting new ball bearings (interestingly still imperial sized balls despite being a metric bike, does ANYONE use metric balls?), re-greasing and adjusting the headset. Once again I didn't take any pics but I'll try to get some when it goes back together.
I also had a quick look at the front hub; the bearings are fine but the brake shoes need relining. I'm guessing the rears won't be as bad but if I'm doing the front I'll sort them all.
And that's where the post is being cut short. I've been busy and then ill so I've not managed to pull the shock fully apart to clean it up and I've hit a slight dead end with the plating for the links. I tried one firm but they wanted £75+ and couldn't guarantee the price until they started the work. I've since found another company specialising in motorbike parts so hopefully that works out better. I'm planning to go with a satin/brushed nickel as I think bright shiny chrome will stand out compared to the rest of the bike. My back up plan is to get new links laser or waterjet cut out of stainless steel and either blast or brush them to get the desired look.
I'm not sure what my next post will cover as I've now started a couple of things without finishing them, first the engine/fuel system and now the forks/shock/headset. I think I will go back and look at the engine and try to work out what I need to order to get that running. I can't remember if I had explained before but the HT lead I ordered doesn't fit (stupid French engine!), I don't know how to set the timing or the carb and I've managed to lose the petrol tap from the tank. The first couple shouldn't be too much of a problem but I think I've right royally ballsed up by miss-placing the petrol tap, I can't see it being that easy to track one down. The broken clutch adjuster has been helicoiled so the cover is ready to go back on when I next work on the bike. If I manage to sort those bits out, it might mean the engine will be running before Christmas, it's just a shame it's going to be in a bike with no forks!
M
I didn't take any pics whilst I was taking it apart, it was all pretty simple - lock nuts on one end and the axle un-threads from the link on that side through a clearance hole in the other link. This is the lower pivot reassembled but without the fork legs in place. I'm going to need to sort new friction discs as they are really hard and brittle, I'm not sure if they're leather or something else but I'm doing some research to find out. The lower pivot is adjusted underneath the black knob then the black knob adjust the amount of friction to damp the suspension action. The star shaped washer applies spring tension and the little clip holds the black knob in place. The upper pivot is much simpler and is just adjusted using the hex end of the axle then locked off with the locknut on the other end.
Whilst it is all apart I will be putting new ball bearings (interestingly still imperial sized balls despite being a metric bike, does ANYONE use metric balls?), re-greasing and adjusting the headset. Once again I didn't take any pics but I'll try to get some when it goes back together.
I also had a quick look at the front hub; the bearings are fine but the brake shoes need relining. I'm guessing the rears won't be as bad but if I'm doing the front I'll sort them all.
And that's where the post is being cut short. I've been busy and then ill so I've not managed to pull the shock fully apart to clean it up and I've hit a slight dead end with the plating for the links. I tried one firm but they wanted £75+ and couldn't guarantee the price until they started the work. I've since found another company specialising in motorbike parts so hopefully that works out better. I'm planning to go with a satin/brushed nickel as I think bright shiny chrome will stand out compared to the rest of the bike. My back up plan is to get new links laser or waterjet cut out of stainless steel and either blast or brush them to get the desired look.
I'm not sure what my next post will cover as I've now started a couple of things without finishing them, first the engine/fuel system and now the forks/shock/headset. I think I will go back and look at the engine and try to work out what I need to order to get that running. I can't remember if I had explained before but the HT lead I ordered doesn't fit (stupid French engine!), I don't know how to set the timing or the carb and I've managed to lose the petrol tap from the tank. The first couple shouldn't be too much of a problem but I think I've right royally ballsed up by miss-placing the petrol tap, I can't see it being that easy to track one down. The broken clutch adjuster has been helicoiled so the cover is ready to go back on when I next work on the bike. If I manage to sort those bits out, it might mean the engine will be running before Christmas, it's just a shame it's going to be in a bike with no forks!
M
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)